Tuesday, June 02, 2009
Guide to First Time Hong Kong Visitors on Budget Trip
I have always received questions and requests for assistance from friends and strangers who plan to visit Hong Kong. Most of the inquiries I get are from the Philippines who are first time visitors to Hong Kong. I can imagine it must be very exciting. But at the same time, the feeling uncertainty is also there as many questions arise. Best affordable and accessible guesthouse? Where to eat cheap? Where to find outlet shops? Do the Chinese people speak English?
I am therefore composing my own version of Enjoying Hong Kong on a Shoestring Budget in hopes of trying to answer these questions.
Visa, Arrival in Hong Kong and Directions
* Philippine passport holders have 14 days visa free entry in Hong Kong. This means that you only need your passport and air ticket to HK. However, if you plan to stay here longer than 14 days, you need a visa. I guess given 14 days in the city, you'd probably conquer every tourist attraction, take every ride in the amusement park or tasted every single food recommended by friends. For citizens of other countries, please refer to this HK government site.
* Getting to Hong Kong on a shoestring budget is not difficult, especially if you had planned well ahead. There are many budget airlines that travel to and from Hong Kong. The key is to plan way ahead. You'll be rewarded with early booking discounts.
* Processing at the Immigration should be pretty straightforward. But sometimes Immigration officers ask simple questions like your purpose of coming, length of stay or even ask how much pocket money you brought. That's their prerogative. As long as you don't bring prohibited items (very large amount of money, dangerous drugs, pirated materials) there is no need to worry.
* Hong Kong airport is huge. But you shouldn't be scared of getting lost. Signs pointing to various directions can be found everywhere. So after you leave the immigration counter, you should find yourself walking towards the arrival hall. Check the signs and you'll be heading to your destination (Airport Express, bus terminal, washroom or elevator) soon.
* Unless you are in a hurry for an appointment, which I think is not likely, there's no need to take the Airport Express. The reason is that while it brings you from airport to the Central Business District in no time (actually 23 minutes), it is bloody expensive at HK$100 one way. You'll also miss the glimpse of a better view of a couple of majestic bridges, huge container port and residential buildings along the way.
* It is advisable to get an Octopus card before leaving the airport. A counter can be found at the arrival hall. One Octopus card costs HK$150 with HK$100 value and HK$50 card deposit. You can use this card to pay the bus or subway (not the taxi), parking meters, McDonald's meals, and a few others. You can reload Octopus card value at MTR stations or 7-Eleven outlets. And when the journey in Hong Kong is over, you can always get back the HK$50 deposit (minus HK$7 handling fee if you used your card for less than 3 months).
* If you only have your back pack, a cheap way to reach the city is to take the S1 route bus from the airport to Tung Chung MTR station and costs HK$3.5 to ride this bus. Upon arriving at Tung Chung MTR station, take the train towards Hong Kong station. You wouldn't miss it; it's the only outbound trip from Tung Chung station. But note that if you arrive in Hong Kong past 1am, you better change plans as the MTR subway service is already done for the day.
* If you have your backpack plus luggage, taking the Airport bus is a good option especially if your hotel is close to the bus stop: one good example is Ramada Hong Kong Hotel and Ibis Hotel North Point for bus A12 traveling from airport to Siu Sai Wan in Hong Kong island. A bus ride cost ranges between HK$20 to HK$45 one way. Fare from the airport to Hong Kong costs more than to Kowloon. These buses are custom-fit with upholstered seats to simulate (or at least try to look the same way as) flying an airplane. These buses can easily be found outside the Hong Kong International Airport premises.
* Taxis and vans are also found in the area but I think for budget tourists, these are not necessary. In case the need arises, you can find taxi queues near the parking lot.
Hotel Stay and Accommodations
One of the most often asked question is about finding a cheap, clean, accessible and secure place to stay in Hong Kong. Guest houses, hostels, hotels, boarding houses, whatever. Filipino tourists are often fine with smaller (and therefore, cheaper) accommodations as long as the other aspects of the trip like shopping and sightseeing are not compromised.
How to Judge Hotels and Guesthouses
For backpackers no booking are made before they arrive in Hong Kong. So what happens is that they may have a list of guest houses to visit and evaluate before settling in during their stay in the city. Rory Boland at About.com has very good tips on booking for these facilities. Among them are the following:
1. See the room. Have a feel of the location. Does it answer your question: is it safe? is it clean? can I sleep at night?
2. Check the pipes in the toilet. Is the heater working properly? For winter months this is essential.
3. Check the aircon. Does it work? Does it emit clean air or in bad shape that needs thorough cleanup?
More from About.com
There are so many hotels and guesthouses in Hong Kong, ranging from claustrophobic squeezed "sardines" layout to spacious, luxury rooms with harbor views. The difference of course is the price. And if we're talking about budgets, premium accommodation often does not come into the equation. So here are some of the cheaper options you can consider. Each of them are close to major transport links and shopping venues.
* Cosmic Guest House - Tsim Sha Tsui (Take Bus A21)
* Sun Kong Hostel - Causeway Bay (Take Exit E of Causeway Bay MTR OR take A11 airport bus)
* Dragon Hostel - Mong Kok (Take A21 airport bus and alight at Mong Kok MTR stop)
I have seen many signs that say "Boarding Houses: For short stay visits or tourists". I think some of these are typically boarding houses, places where stay-out domestic helpers (yes, some of them don't stay in their employers houses because they have no more space or want more privacy at night time). So to make more money, and avoid wasting an unoccupied bedroom some owners/tenants sublet these rooms. These are probably the cheapest way to stay in Hong Kong. However, I am aware that Hong Kong has laws forbidding residential buildings or unregistered premises to be used as lodging houses.
Nothing against these folks, because I think most of them are friendly. But the concern I have is that it's possible that authorities could raid the premises while you're there sleeping. Would you wake up at 2am, wandering half-asleep in the street, hoping to find a reasonably priced (no longer likely) accommodation? Also, I've heard cases about losing valuables in the luggage while guests are outdoors. So in short, I am leaning towards a no to these boarding houses, to play safe.
Talking to Locals
Negotiating for a venue to spend the night and rest may not be your first foray of talking to locals who may not be well versed with English, but certainly this is one of the most challenging one. Here are some tips when speaking to them.
* There is no need to be fluent in talking in English
* Speak slowly
* Use simple English terms
* Follow up with action if words can't explain
* Useful Cantonese phrases:
ngóh m̀sìk góng gwóngdùngwá (I don't speak Cantonese)
m̀gòi (excuse me)
jou san (good morning),
Nīgo géidō chín a? (how much is this?)
sáisáugāan hai bīndouh a? (where is the toilet?)
Assuming you had a good night sleep or spent late night settling in, you ought to wake up at 8:30am, have shower and have breakfast at 9. Some guest houses offer them, but if they don't, cheap eats are numerous in the morning. Yoshinoya, KFC, Cafe de Coral, McDonald's and Maxim's have mornings-only menu items that cost cheaper than lunch or dinner.
If you prefer more Chinese menu with some Western flair, then you can visit Cafe de Coral. If you crave for rice in the morning, Yoshinoya has chicken and beef rice options. A typical breakfast may consist of toasted bread, fried noodles, milk tea or coffee, pancake, roast pork or sandwich. It's good to try local food, although I won't blame others for sticking with their usual meals especially those who can't tolerate eating new types of food.
Lunch or dinner menus are slightly different but you'll have more to choose from. Chinese restaurants have Chinese menu and may have difficulty in talking in English. (See "Talking to Locals" above).
The local char siu pao is the same as our siopao back in the Philippines.
Touring the City
Depending on your preferences, there are numerous permutations on where to go in Hong Kong. If you're into nature, shopping, sightseeing, food trip, the list goes on. But for those who don't have anything in preference, here's my take:
It's best to visit Hong Kong Disneyland on a weekday, presumably as weekends and holidays allow locals (working parents and school children). HKDL opens at 10:30am so being there just in time before it opens its gates. Since it's located near the airport and quite a distance from Causeway Bay and North Point (about 45 minutes), Tsim Sha Tsui and Mong Kok (about 30 minutes) it would be good to use an hour for travel allowance. I personally haven't been to Disneyland but I think it's best to spend the whole day there, from gate opening to the fireworks display.
At the end of the day, folks may be tired from the exhausting trip to fantasyland photo taking and rides. But if spare energy is still available, a trip to Mong Kok or Temple Street's night market is good after dinner. It's time to buy presents and souvenir items.
After breakfast, a stroll at Wan Chai's Bauhinia Square / Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre and witnessing tai chi is a good way to start the day. Then head to Ocean Park via bus 629 which can be found at the bus terminal outside of Admiralty station. Discounts used to be offered to residents but I am not sure if that's still enforced.
You can leave Ocean Park by 5pm, taking the same bus back to Admiralty MTR. Go towards Pacific Place and at the bridge connecting Pacific Place and Queensway Plaza you'll find a Hongkong Tramways stop. Take the tram that says "Western Market", "Shek Tong Tsui", "Whitty Street Depot" or "Kennedy Town" to go to Central. Fixed payment of HK$2 is made by the time you alight the tram. You may alight three or four stops later, and view the iconic HSBC building, ifc 2, Cheung Kong, and Bank of China Tower.
You can walk towards Lan Kwai Fong (just ask anyone and they'll point the direction). Dining may be expensive in the area but if budget allows, it's worth a try. It's not only the food you're paying for; you're also paying the ambiance as you witness how Hong Kong transforms from business daytime to relaxing night time.
Go to the Mid-Levels escalator, a long link of escalators that connect Central and its SOHO neighborhood. Along the way you can find fine dining restaurants, fastfood outlets, shops that sell wines, books, wedding accessories and more.
You may then go to bus terminal at Exchange Square (near ifc mall) and go to Stanley Market and Repulse Bay beach in the south. Return trips often pass by Queens Road East in Wan Chai and Admiralty's Pacific Place. You may then proceed to The Peak at Garden Road. To reach there, take the escalator inside Pacific Place that leads to Island Shangri-La. Continue your ascent until you reach Hong Kong Park. Along the way you can drop by the aviary nearby or visit Hong Kong's East Asian Games showroom if time permits. The Peak Tram terminal should be within the vicinity.
A visit to The Peak is ideal on a clear day, preferably around sunset time. You don't have to stay too long there, except if you want to visit Madam Tussauds or have dinner but remember this is an itinerary for budget travelers. You may want to take the bus 15 going to Central instead of returning to your Peak Tram ride. (Cost for going up and down is almost the same.) It allows you to experience how buses travel near the edge of ravines in a winding road. Should you decide to take this bus ride, alight at very last bus stop which is located at the Ferry Terminals in Central.
Take the Star Ferry going to Tsim Sha Tsui. Hopefully it's around 7pm when you take this one. Upon landing into TST, go directly to Avenue of the Stars and take photos. By 7:30pm go to the viewing deck area, find a comfortable seat and witness why Victoria Harbour's skyline is one of the world's best.
By 8:00pm, the Symphony of Lights should start. This is actually a synchronized display of dancing lights emanating from various points across buildings in Hong Kong island as well as in Kowloon. This display lasts for several minutes. Don't miss this one.
Have dinner and call it a day.
Explore the malls that offer best deals in town. I guess this one is reserved at the last day of your visit, as you collect the savings of the first few days.
* Go to Esprit Outlets in Tsim Sha Tsui and Mong Kok
* Go to Citygate Outlets in Tung Chung. If you decide to leave Disneyland early in Day 1, this is just close by so you should drop by.
That's how I would like to plan a brief stay in Hong Kong for first time visitors on shoestring budget. As always, just contact me if you have further questions.
If you need more ideas on things to do in Hong Kong, please check out part 1, part 2 and part 3.
Photo credit: chrisuemach, crispy789
Translation help: Omniglot.com